Our last half day at Ko Samui was spent at the beach. The sun was shining and Michael Jackson was blasting from the resort down the beach. I should probably take a moment to comment on Southeast Asians being absurdly obsessed with MJ. I was in Singapore when he passed away and I only was able to watch news about and relating to Michael Jackson for the duration of my trip. Forgive me if I'm a little slow with current events but I could catalog MJ's family members and life timeline in my sleep if you asked. Anywho, back to the beach. Ya know what - since I'm ranting let me move onto the Europeans on the beach. Before traveling most do some research about what is and isn't appropriate behavior. One such inappropriate behavior a googler might come across is going topless on a beach in Thailand. Europeans clearly didn't do their research. Our beach was littered with topless women and thier beaus. They didn't just lie there on their beach and keep their disrespect to themselves. No. They frolicked in the water, on the sand and sprawled out on rocks for photoshoots taken by their significant others. It wasn't just the nakies either; in town and on boats and basically anywhere there was good lighting the men of European descent wanted to take picures of their women looking seductive. And not one picture - an entire shoot with many, many a picure. Who knew elephant riding was seductive? For Etienne and Francois it was. I almost felt that I should have asked Shannon to take my picture in the setting sun with my hair blowing in the wind to fit in.
We left our beautiful semi nude-beach on a ferry to Ko Phangan (pronounced Pan-yang, after MUCH difficulty). The ride was filled with sunburned backpackers and it was a short 30 minutes; You can see the island's mountains in the distance off of the coast of Ko Samui. And there were some serious mountains. We arrived and took a van to our bungalow on extremely hilly and windy roads;I really think at one point I could only see directly into the sky as our van was at a 90 degree angle up one mountainous road. We met some Irish guys on our van ride who just got off the ferry and found a woman with a pamphlet in broken English for a hostel and were on their way there. Just listening to their trip (no planned hostels, no planned stays, missed airplanes, etc.) made me break out into a type-A sweat. When talking about their lack of planning, they asked, "What, you guys have your whole trip planned out already? Even the hostels?" I cooly replied that we still didn't have the hotel for the last night in Bangkok; I thought that maybe one fly-by-the-seat-of-our-pants night might make us a little cooler. Wrong. They got off at their run-down hostel with their tiny bags that probaly contained two pairs of dirty underwear and a 6-pack of Guiness and waved goodbye to the neuroticly prepared American girls and we were on our way.
Our Bungalow was at the Cocohut Village, which is in Haad Rin, the southernmost peninsula on Koh Phangan, where the infamous Full Moon Party is. We were on the western/sunset side - Haad Rin Nok - and the party beach on the eastern/sunrise side of the peninsula - Had Rin Nai, was a 5 minute walk away. Our bungalow was one of the mountainside villas and you had to trek up quite a number of stairs to get there. Getting up there in our backpacks in the scorching heat we were nothing short of winded (too many Nutella pancakes? Maybe.) Cocohut Village was much larger than Promtsuk Buri on Samui - and it had an infiniti pool that overlooked Leela Beach and the ocean. We took a lounge chair and looked out at Ko Samui and I finished my book while the sun set. We trekked up, winded again, to shower for dinner.
We were greeted by a billion huge red ants. Surprise - the mountain bungalows come with holes in their walls! We learned quickly to walk around in flip flops and step on as many as possible. Probably not the Buddhist way, but it's the American way and old habits die hard. We went to Haad Rin Nai for dinner and found that all the open-air restaurants that boast Thai, "western," and Israeli food play movies all night so you don't have to talk to your miserable travel partner or even worse, your life partner at the table; you can watch a movie and enjoy your Pad Thai and Chang Beer in peace. You're probably wondering about the Israeli part - I was. Cocohut should be renamed Little Israel. I thought it was a fluke at our place but when we ventured into town we soon realized that Koh Phangan is to Israelis as Cancun is to Americans. We ate a meal of sweet and spicy shrimp while watching a movie for 6 bucks. Afterwards we walked around to find something to do and saw buckets - legitimate buckets that you used to build sandcastles in (you know, the kind that are bright blue or red and have a yellow handle) - with a bottle of alcohol and a can of soda being sold as a package for the equivalent of 2 US dollars. This sounds great but remember it is 90 degrees with 100% humidity. And this brings me to the dilemma that we've been having since we left sanitary Singapore: to ice or not to ice? A mixed drink bucket filled with jack and coke doesn't sound appetizing without that bucket filled with ice too. Poison ice? No. But is it poison? That is the mystery. A lot of other backpackers and tourists are drinking mixed and frozen drinks; do they not know the fate and will they have horrendous nights ahead of them filled with illness? Are we the only crazy Americans walking around with liters of hand sanitizer and saying "water, no ice please?" We just don't know. So long story short, we did not get a bucket of alcohol sans ice. We settled for a large safe beer on the beach and watched a fire show.
We went home full of beer and noodles and slept well. I woke up with two ants on my arm and didn't care. I'm so backpacker-y and daring!
. . .
Alas, even in my early morning sleepiness I was quick to reach for my bedside hand sanitizer, though. Sigh.
Thursday, July 30, 2009
Monday, July 27, 2009
A Bee-you-tee-ful Day at the National Park
Ko Samui Day 3
Our trek set up for today was to Angthong National Marine Park. It was still cloudy in the morning but on the ferry ride to the marine park, the sun finally humored us and decided to show up. Damn lazy bastard. The park is northwest of Ko Samui and we booked a full day tour out there. Sure, why not? Not like we had any other responsibilities like you folks at home reading my blog probably do. Zing!
The boat came up to a bunch of mountains posing as islands in the middle of nowhere. As we got closer, we saw that most had a tiny strip of beach at the bottom of the mountainous island. As we pulled up in our ferry, I couldn't get over the beautiful scene ahead of me. It was amazing - and we were about to go there. Better yet, kayak there. We stopped offshore and went below to get into a kayak to get to shore. Shannon and I got a 2 person kayak and followed a guide along the coast of Ko Mae Ko, or the mother island among the 50-60 islands that make up the marine park. We followed the leader under an "awning" of rock in the water, so that we were almost in a cave. If we looked up, we saw the rock directly above us and if we looked out, we saw more islands and clear bright blue water. We kayaked around the island and got off at one of the tiny beaches. We then hiked in a bathing suit and trekking sandals/sneakers (beautiful sight, lemme tell ya) for about an hour to see an interior lake-like pool encircled by plam trees and rock formations. At the top of the hike you could look out and see other islands. The bright emerald inlet looked like something painted on the world canvas, and you know what - come to think of it it might well have been since we didn't actually go down and stick our fingers into the water to test it out. It was that perfect.
We hiked down, still looking styling in our suits and sneakers and sweating a tad (read: dripping with sweat) to take a long-tail boat back to the ferry for a Thai food feast.
After inhaling rice, curried beef, sweet and sour veggies, some pineapple and orange juice -- actually it was 10% orange juice and 90% idunno -- we headed off to another island: Wua Talap, or "sleeping cow." They tried to explain why it is called that and I really did listen but I still can't tell ya. This was another white sand beach at the bottom of a larger rocky mountain covered in palm trees and lush vegetation. If someone told me that we were going to a more beautiful island than the one I had just been on, I would have said it was impossible. But it was. This island was indescribable. When I post pictures, you'll see what I mean. And that is really the only way to understand what this looked like. It was I imagine heaven to be, if I weren't a Jew.
We took a long-tail boat to the island and were given the option to hike or snorkel. I pushed Shannon to hike. They boasted an amazing view at the top of that large mountain and I wanted to see it. They told us it was a hard hike. THAT, my friends, was the understatement of the century. Shannon, if you are reading this, I am sorry again. Clad in our bikinis and hiking sandals again, we started on what would be almost a 2 hour climb up and down. It was extremely steep and the entire path had a rope to hold onto as you climbed up the mountain. We held on the entire way.
So Thailand is hot, right? Try climbing a 500 meter hike on an island in Thailand. I tried to grip the rope but my sweat and sunscreen (SPF 8000) made it difficult. I was sweating everything in my body out onto the rocks. I have never been so slippery, sweaty and slimey. Throughout the hike, I'd look back at Shannon and I'd get a "uufhhhggghhh" as she looked up at me sweating through her hiking shoes. I thought we'd never make it, but we did. At the top it was all burning hot rocks because there were no trees to shade them from the sun. So I carefully moved on the rocks and stood up to take in the panoramic view. It was the higest point at the national park; you could see all the islands and the water and the teeny tiny ferry that brought us out there at the bottom of the island I was standing on top of. I was drenched in sweat, exhausted, dehydrated and up there, I didn't care. Again, my pictures will have to do the talking. I'll just say that if I had a pocket, and wouldn't have ruined it with my obscene amount of perspiration, I would have brought my dad's picture up there.
I got down faster than I got up there but it was actually more difficult. I think I was just thinking about the bottle of water and cool blue ocean at the bottom calling my name. I came out of the vegetation, ran right by our guide saying "Oh! So you did the hike?" and directly into the ocean.
Ahhhhhhhh.
From the water, I looked up at the top of the mountain that I had just climbed and again, couldn't believe where I was. It was so beautiful. That word doesn't do that island justice.
Oh yea, and seven hours later, Shannon emerged from the hike and didn't talk to me ever again. Not really - but she did take a while longer and ran directly into the water too. I know the tour guide must have been laughing at the silly Americans. He was most likely wearing a wool sweater and not a bead of sweat was to be seen on his brow.
We swam around for a while and then got onto the ferry to head back to Ko Samui. I sat with my feet hanging off the boat, watching the islands go by and reading my book.
We got back to Samui and our pictures that they had snapped of us at 8am as we boarded the ferry were waiting for us, on plates. Yes, on plates. That is what they do here. They corner you as you climb onto ferries, board buses or basically look like shit at any point in the morning and then take the day to plaster it onto a plate in the hopes that you'll buy it and remember your trip every time you eat your macaroni. I always try to hide or look like I'm sleep-walking when they snap them. Shannon does a good job at it too. Come to think of it, most of the people look like they are sleepwalking or in a semiconscious state on those plates. I looked at mine and my eyes were closed, but of course. It was a tough decision but I decided to pass on the plate; I think I could remember that island without it.
The ride back was hard to stay awake for, but I tried. As I said, I love the rides through the sleepy towns that no one takes tours through or the time to see. I dozed off and woke up and realized that the sun has a funny habit of shedding its light on different places in the same manner all over the world. I was sleepy and when I looked at the light on the dirt road, I could have been on the New Jersey Turnpike or 101 on the coast of California. The sun shines down on the earth and if you squint your eyes it brings you back to wherever you've been or know well. However, I was on a dirt road with thatched stilted houses on each side. Children were throwing a ball at each other on one side and a woman was selling dried meat on the other. The sun spills on the world in the same manner and it almost feels like home when you see it at certain times of the day.
Today was one of the most beautiful places I've been. When I went to the Asian Civilizations Museum in Singapore there was an exhibit by a photographer there - Steve McCurry. You have seen his picture of the Afghan girl, I'm sure. There was also a contest that he set up where people sent in pictures from all over the world. They tried to capture everyday moments and people the way he does. As I looked at those pictures that were sent in by thousands of people around the world, I was overwhelmed by the beauty that is in every day life and that others are able to see. I also was overwhelmed by my desire to see it all. I stood looking at the pictures and cried. It was a good cry (and one that was hidden from the other people at the exhibit, clearly. When did I become semi-emotional?). It was an alive cry. There are so many beautiful things to try and see. Why do we need jobs again? Damn responsibilities. Those islands today are yet another time when I had the chance to experience how beauty can overwhelm (or underwhelm, as mine did at 8am as evidenced by my face on the plate). This time when I looked at the clear blue water or saw the sun from the top of a mountain on an island I didn't cry, though. Geez.
We got back to our bungalow and it was starting to get dark. I showered outside looking up at the greying sky and it started to rain. I showered in the rain and it was fantastic.
Our trek set up for today was to Angthong National Marine Park. It was still cloudy in the morning but on the ferry ride to the marine park, the sun finally humored us and decided to show up. Damn lazy bastard. The park is northwest of Ko Samui and we booked a full day tour out there. Sure, why not? Not like we had any other responsibilities like you folks at home reading my blog probably do. Zing!
The boat came up to a bunch of mountains posing as islands in the middle of nowhere. As we got closer, we saw that most had a tiny strip of beach at the bottom of the mountainous island. As we pulled up in our ferry, I couldn't get over the beautiful scene ahead of me. It was amazing - and we were about to go there. Better yet, kayak there. We stopped offshore and went below to get into a kayak to get to shore. Shannon and I got a 2 person kayak and followed a guide along the coast of Ko Mae Ko, or the mother island among the 50-60 islands that make up the marine park. We followed the leader under an "awning" of rock in the water, so that we were almost in a cave. If we looked up, we saw the rock directly above us and if we looked out, we saw more islands and clear bright blue water. We kayaked around the island and got off at one of the tiny beaches. We then hiked in a bathing suit and trekking sandals/sneakers (beautiful sight, lemme tell ya) for about an hour to see an interior lake-like pool encircled by plam trees and rock formations. At the top of the hike you could look out and see other islands. The bright emerald inlet looked like something painted on the world canvas, and you know what - come to think of it it might well have been since we didn't actually go down and stick our fingers into the water to test it out. It was that perfect.
We hiked down, still looking styling in our suits and sneakers and sweating a tad (read: dripping with sweat) to take a long-tail boat back to the ferry for a Thai food feast.
After inhaling rice, curried beef, sweet and sour veggies, some pineapple and orange juice -- actually it was 10% orange juice and 90% idunno -- we headed off to another island: Wua Talap, or "sleeping cow." They tried to explain why it is called that and I really did listen but I still can't tell ya. This was another white sand beach at the bottom of a larger rocky mountain covered in palm trees and lush vegetation. If someone told me that we were going to a more beautiful island than the one I had just been on, I would have said it was impossible. But it was. This island was indescribable. When I post pictures, you'll see what I mean. And that is really the only way to understand what this looked like. It was I imagine heaven to be, if I weren't a Jew.
We took a long-tail boat to the island and were given the option to hike or snorkel. I pushed Shannon to hike. They boasted an amazing view at the top of that large mountain and I wanted to see it. They told us it was a hard hike. THAT, my friends, was the understatement of the century. Shannon, if you are reading this, I am sorry again. Clad in our bikinis and hiking sandals again, we started on what would be almost a 2 hour climb up and down. It was extremely steep and the entire path had a rope to hold onto as you climbed up the mountain. We held on the entire way.
So Thailand is hot, right? Try climbing a 500 meter hike on an island in Thailand. I tried to grip the rope but my sweat and sunscreen (SPF 8000) made it difficult. I was sweating everything in my body out onto the rocks. I have never been so slippery, sweaty and slimey. Throughout the hike, I'd look back at Shannon and I'd get a "uufhhhggghhh" as she looked up at me sweating through her hiking shoes. I thought we'd never make it, but we did. At the top it was all burning hot rocks because there were no trees to shade them from the sun. So I carefully moved on the rocks and stood up to take in the panoramic view. It was the higest point at the national park; you could see all the islands and the water and the teeny tiny ferry that brought us out there at the bottom of the island I was standing on top of. I was drenched in sweat, exhausted, dehydrated and up there, I didn't care. Again, my pictures will have to do the talking. I'll just say that if I had a pocket, and wouldn't have ruined it with my obscene amount of perspiration, I would have brought my dad's picture up there.
I got down faster than I got up there but it was actually more difficult. I think I was just thinking about the bottle of water and cool blue ocean at the bottom calling my name. I came out of the vegetation, ran right by our guide saying "Oh! So you did the hike?" and directly into the ocean.
Ahhhhhhhh.
From the water, I looked up at the top of the mountain that I had just climbed and again, couldn't believe where I was. It was so beautiful. That word doesn't do that island justice.
Oh yea, and seven hours later, Shannon emerged from the hike and didn't talk to me ever again. Not really - but she did take a while longer and ran directly into the water too. I know the tour guide must have been laughing at the silly Americans. He was most likely wearing a wool sweater and not a bead of sweat was to be seen on his brow.
We swam around for a while and then got onto the ferry to head back to Ko Samui. I sat with my feet hanging off the boat, watching the islands go by and reading my book.
We got back to Samui and our pictures that they had snapped of us at 8am as we boarded the ferry were waiting for us, on plates. Yes, on plates. That is what they do here. They corner you as you climb onto ferries, board buses or basically look like shit at any point in the morning and then take the day to plaster it onto a plate in the hopes that you'll buy it and remember your trip every time you eat your macaroni. I always try to hide or look like I'm sleep-walking when they snap them. Shannon does a good job at it too. Come to think of it, most of the people look like they are sleepwalking or in a semiconscious state on those plates. I looked at mine and my eyes were closed, but of course. It was a tough decision but I decided to pass on the plate; I think I could remember that island without it.
The ride back was hard to stay awake for, but I tried. As I said, I love the rides through the sleepy towns that no one takes tours through or the time to see. I dozed off and woke up and realized that the sun has a funny habit of shedding its light on different places in the same manner all over the world. I was sleepy and when I looked at the light on the dirt road, I could have been on the New Jersey Turnpike or 101 on the coast of California. The sun shines down on the earth and if you squint your eyes it brings you back to wherever you've been or know well. However, I was on a dirt road with thatched stilted houses on each side. Children were throwing a ball at each other on one side and a woman was selling dried meat on the other. The sun spills on the world in the same manner and it almost feels like home when you see it at certain times of the day.
Today was one of the most beautiful places I've been. When I went to the Asian Civilizations Museum in Singapore there was an exhibit by a photographer there - Steve McCurry. You have seen his picture of the Afghan girl, I'm sure. There was also a contest that he set up where people sent in pictures from all over the world. They tried to capture everyday moments and people the way he does. As I looked at those pictures that were sent in by thousands of people around the world, I was overwhelmed by the beauty that is in every day life and that others are able to see. I also was overwhelmed by my desire to see it all. I stood looking at the pictures and cried. It was a good cry (and one that was hidden from the other people at the exhibit, clearly. When did I become semi-emotional?). It was an alive cry. There are so many beautiful things to try and see. Why do we need jobs again? Damn responsibilities. Those islands today are yet another time when I had the chance to experience how beauty can overwhelm (or underwhelm, as mine did at 8am as evidenced by my face on the plate). This time when I looked at the clear blue water or saw the sun from the top of a mountain on an island I didn't cry, though. Geez.
We got back to our bungalow and it was starting to get dark. I showered outside looking up at the greying sky and it started to rain. I showered in the rain and it was fantastic.
Ooh la la
Ko Samui Day 2
So this morning was not the relaxing type of wake up when you're at the beach inThailand that we were hoping for. I looked at my watch and realized I didn't actually know how to set the alarm and we had two minutes to get ready to go on our trek for the day. Then we looked outside and saw that it was raining. We ran outside to our driver, rescheduled and then set up another trek that didn't require good weather.
We ate breakfast at our beach again and met a woman who has been there for five weeks with her husband. She's the director of an international school in Chang Mai. She said she and her husband moved there to retire and then got offered the job to run the school so they took it. How fantastic is that life? If there's something I've learned on this trip it's that there are a lot more people out there doing a lot more different things that I had imagined from my grey desk and my black desk chair in my grey office building in DC.
We sat on the beach for a while and then were picked up by a flatbed rickety truck for our elephant adventure we set up. We held on until our knuckes were white as we watched the villages and countryside fly by. I have to say, one of my favorite parts about traveling is being driven from one place to another. I know I wrote about it Bali too; it's great to see normal life in these areas. No hotels, hostels, restaurants or taxicabs. Just life.
So what we set up was an elephant trek ending at a waterfall. The rain stopped just in time to get on the big, hairy, smelly cute animal. Shannon and I sat on the top and the trainer sat on his big ol' head as we moved slowwwwwllyyyy through the rainforest. The trainer said three things the entire time we rode: 1. Oh my godddd 2. Oooh la la and 3. Hoooaaahhhh!! The first two were said at anything remotely pretty or interesting or any large insect (note that he did not move away from the large spiders in the webs but actually told the elephant to go closer so we could get a better look. We soon learned that the chairs on the elephant can swing all the way onto the other side off his back onto his flank as we scrambled to move as far away from the monsterous spiders as possible. Mister Ooh la la didn't bring us closer to any other spiders after that.
He then let me jump onto his head as the trainer to the ground to lead the elephant from there. Shannon preferred the seat at the top. Pansy. So I sat on the noggin' as he moved along through the rainforest. He blew his nose on me three times throughout the ride. I counted. He brought his nose up, and literately blew stuff out of it onto my arm. Not Ooh la la.
They then let us off at a waterfall that ended in a little pool. I immediately jumped (read: waded carefully) into the water so as to get the elephant boogies off my arm. It felt gooooood. This little 7 year old girl and I jumped off the rocks into the waterfall as soon as we figured out how deep it was.
I had a great time playing with the 7 year old but the time came to ride the truck of death back to our beach. We ate some fried noodles for lunch and slept on the beach the rest of the day.
So this morning was not the relaxing type of wake up when you're at the beach inThailand that we were hoping for. I looked at my watch and realized I didn't actually know how to set the alarm and we had two minutes to get ready to go on our trek for the day. Then we looked outside and saw that it was raining. We ran outside to our driver, rescheduled and then set up another trek that didn't require good weather.
We ate breakfast at our beach again and met a woman who has been there for five weeks with her husband. She's the director of an international school in Chang Mai. She said she and her husband moved there to retire and then got offered the job to run the school so they took it. How fantastic is that life? If there's something I've learned on this trip it's that there are a lot more people out there doing a lot more different things that I had imagined from my grey desk and my black desk chair in my grey office building in DC.
We sat on the beach for a while and then were picked up by a flatbed rickety truck for our elephant adventure we set up. We held on until our knuckes were white as we watched the villages and countryside fly by. I have to say, one of my favorite parts about traveling is being driven from one place to another. I know I wrote about it Bali too; it's great to see normal life in these areas. No hotels, hostels, restaurants or taxicabs. Just life.
So what we set up was an elephant trek ending at a waterfall. The rain stopped just in time to get on the big, hairy, smelly cute animal. Shannon and I sat on the top and the trainer sat on his big ol' head as we moved slowwwwwllyyyy through the rainforest. The trainer said three things the entire time we rode: 1. Oh my godddd 2. Oooh la la and 3. Hoooaaahhhh!! The first two were said at anything remotely pretty or interesting or any large insect (note that he did not move away from the large spiders in the webs but actually told the elephant to go closer so we could get a better look. We soon learned that the chairs on the elephant can swing all the way onto the other side off his back onto his flank as we scrambled to move as far away from the monsterous spiders as possible. Mister Ooh la la didn't bring us closer to any other spiders after that.
He then let me jump onto his head as the trainer to the ground to lead the elephant from there. Shannon preferred the seat at the top. Pansy. So I sat on the noggin' as he moved along through the rainforest. He blew his nose on me three times throughout the ride. I counted. He brought his nose up, and literately blew stuff out of it onto my arm. Not Ooh la la.
They then let us off at a waterfall that ended in a little pool. I immediately jumped (read: waded carefully) into the water so as to get the elephant boogies off my arm. It felt gooooood. This little 7 year old girl and I jumped off the rocks into the waterfall as soon as we figured out how deep it was.
I had a great time playing with the 7 year old but the time came to ride the truck of death back to our beach. We ate some fried noodles for lunch and slept on the beach the rest of the day.
Tuesday, July 21, 2009
Koh Hopping
Koh Samui Day 1
Late Thursday night, Shannon and I arrived in Koh Samui, Thailand. Koh means Island in Thai. It's on the eastern coast in the Gulf of Thailand. We booked a beach bungalow just south of all the loud partying in Chaweng near Lamai.
Our bungalo is small and perfect. It has the bathroom outside open to the air so you can shower and pee in the wilderness. Just as I'd always wanted! I imagine my dad staying here and have to laugh out loud.
Perfect minus the monstrous moth that was sitting above our door when we got back from dinner. We stood staring at it, staring back at each other and then staring at it again. It was SO SO big. I am not talking about a tiny moth. From afar it could be mistaken for a bird. So finally after some deliberation, I opened the door slowly and darted in. Shannon followed but did not have such a lucky dismount. She screamed, slipped in her wet flip flops and caught the edge of the door with her side. We clearly disturbed the tranquility that everyone else was enjoying up until our arrival. Shannon still has a nasty scab reminding her that moths are not just another harmless creature to not be feared.
Shannon's birthday was the next day and it was a bit overcast. We donned our bathing suits and set out to eat our free-with-reservation breakfast on the beach. We ate eggs, yogurt, museli and fruit. We then headed to the beach for the morning. I'll skip forward to lunch. Am I talking about food too much? Well that was about all we had to do betwee breakfast and lunch: decide what to eat next. We ate at another beach bar and I had Tom Yum soup (traditional spicy Thai dish) and ice cream (traditional fat American in Thailand dessert). We then swam over to a rocky area of the beach.
The beach. It is a little inlet surrounded by jungle and hills on each side. All the islands off of Thailand are igneous rocks and have a lot of large rocks on the shore yet smooth white sand for beach-goers to swim and stand on. Works out well for nature and us. It's beautiful. We climbed around and jumped off (first carefully checking how deep) into the clear, warm, smooth water.
We then ventured into a more rowdy area of the island - Chaweng. We walked around and saw full fledged pigs roasting and men cutting slabs of their hind legs off for tourists to gnaw on. When we had our fair share of that and "you are very pretty, can I kiss you?" and "where are you from pretty lady?" we decided on a beautiful spot on the beach for Shannon's birthday dinner. It was called Eat Sense and was reviewed by a bunch of white people. Sounds good to me. Wait, did I just write that? It's the same thing as looking to make sure white people are eating at food stands before you decide to eat there too, in other parts of Asia. I just decided to write it down and admit to it. I'm not ashamed. I didn't want any GI trouble this trip. I have already had enough hospital visits for a while.
They sang the Happy Birthday song to Shannon and it went a little something like this:
Waiter: what is her name?
Me: Shannon.
Waiter looks blank.
Me: S-H-A-N-N-O-N
Waiter: Okay.
Team of singers: Happy birthday to you, Happy birthday to you, Happy birthday dear . . .
Me: --SHANNON!!!!!!
Team of singers: . . . Happy birthday to you!!!!!
It went over well.
We had a traditional cake. And by traditional I mean not traditional at all. It was fruit, waffles and some other nonsense on a plate and it was delish. We then went to a bar that had little couches and makeshift bungalos to sit at to drink and we chose a thick wide couch to sit and have Thai beer. Good end to a great day to celebrate a fantastic friend on a beautiful island.
Late Thursday night, Shannon and I arrived in Koh Samui, Thailand. Koh means Island in Thai. It's on the eastern coast in the Gulf of Thailand. We booked a beach bungalow just south of all the loud partying in Chaweng near Lamai.
Our bungalo is small and perfect. It has the bathroom outside open to the air so you can shower and pee in the wilderness. Just as I'd always wanted! I imagine my dad staying here and have to laugh out loud.
Perfect minus the monstrous moth that was sitting above our door when we got back from dinner. We stood staring at it, staring back at each other and then staring at it again. It was SO SO big. I am not talking about a tiny moth. From afar it could be mistaken for a bird. So finally after some deliberation, I opened the door slowly and darted in. Shannon followed but did not have such a lucky dismount. She screamed, slipped in her wet flip flops and caught the edge of the door with her side. We clearly disturbed the tranquility that everyone else was enjoying up until our arrival. Shannon still has a nasty scab reminding her that moths are not just another harmless creature to not be feared.
Shannon's birthday was the next day and it was a bit overcast. We donned our bathing suits and set out to eat our free-with-reservation breakfast on the beach. We ate eggs, yogurt, museli and fruit. We then headed to the beach for the morning. I'll skip forward to lunch. Am I talking about food too much? Well that was about all we had to do betwee breakfast and lunch: decide what to eat next. We ate at another beach bar and I had Tom Yum soup (traditional spicy Thai dish) and ice cream (traditional fat American in Thailand dessert). We then swam over to a rocky area of the beach.
The beach. It is a little inlet surrounded by jungle and hills on each side. All the islands off of Thailand are igneous rocks and have a lot of large rocks on the shore yet smooth white sand for beach-goers to swim and stand on. Works out well for nature and us. It's beautiful. We climbed around and jumped off (first carefully checking how deep) into the clear, warm, smooth water.
We then ventured into a more rowdy area of the island - Chaweng. We walked around and saw full fledged pigs roasting and men cutting slabs of their hind legs off for tourists to gnaw on. When we had our fair share of that and "you are very pretty, can I kiss you?" and "where are you from pretty lady?" we decided on a beautiful spot on the beach for Shannon's birthday dinner. It was called Eat Sense and was reviewed by a bunch of white people. Sounds good to me. Wait, did I just write that? It's the same thing as looking to make sure white people are eating at food stands before you decide to eat there too, in other parts of Asia. I just decided to write it down and admit to it. I'm not ashamed. I didn't want any GI trouble this trip. I have already had enough hospital visits for a while.
They sang the Happy Birthday song to Shannon and it went a little something like this:
Waiter: what is her name?
Me: Shannon.
Waiter looks blank.
Me: S-H-A-N-N-O-N
Waiter: Okay.
Team of singers: Happy birthday to you, Happy birthday to you, Happy birthday dear . . .
Me: --SHANNON!!!!!!
Team of singers: . . . Happy birthday to you!!!!!
It went over well.
We had a traditional cake. And by traditional I mean not traditional at all. It was fruit, waffles and some other nonsense on a plate and it was delish. We then went to a bar that had little couches and makeshift bungalos to sit at to drink and we chose a thick wide couch to sit and have Thai beer. Good end to a great day to celebrate a fantastic friend on a beautiful island.
Shannon Has Arrived - Time to Say Goodbye
After much ado getting to my apartment, my friend Shannon has arrived in Singapore to continue my travels with me! I told her beforehand that she'd have trouble with the cab driver finding my apartment; cab drivers don't know where anything is in Singapore, and on top of it they can't understand my street name. I get in the cab. "13 Suffolk road please." "Huh?" "Suffolk Road please. Between KK Hospital and United Square off Thompson Road." "Fussolk?" I try phonetically speaking. "Suf-folk, not suf-fuk." Blank stare. "S-U-F-F-O-L-K. Just start driving and I'll tell you." 20 minutes later. "There! There! Turn there!" "Oooooh, Suffolk" Right.
Anywho, she arrived and slept a good 9 hours and we were off. She ate at one of the food courts for 5 bucks and tried her first Cendol. She was not a fan. I finished the rest of hers (sidenote, I'm writing from an internet cafe in Thailand and literately salivating at the thought of Cendol) and felt disgustingly but happily full the rest of the day. I took her on a Singapore duck tour. Cheesy? Yes. However, it's a quick view of the city and she had only a few days. It was ridiculously hot and the tour goes in the water and gets a pathetic attempt at a breeze, so it was worth it. We learned not much new about Singapore but got to see some sights. We then went to Chinatown. She bought a few things and we had sushi for dinner. I dragged her out to Raffles for a Singapore Sling after that and she was about falling asleep in her drink. Her jet lag brought us home (no need to be ashamed, Shannon. I was lagged for about a week!).
The next day we had an all-you-can-eat sushi buffet. Good idea beforehand, horrible stomach pains after. There was an interesting twist to this buffet. If you took the sushi off the conveyor belt and did not eat every dang crumb, they charged you for it. Needless to say, at the end, Shan and I ended up almost vomiting when we had to stick one last sushi roll in our mouths when we could no longer take any more. Kind of ruins the experience a tad when they're watching you like a hawk to see that you don't leave a speck of ginger on your plate.
We ventured to Arab street to wander around like fatties full of sushi until the time ticked 4pm and we had to hurry off to my final presentation at the hospital. We gave a presentation on depression and oncology. It's a topic that I am passionate about; clinicians continue to treat the body and not the head attached to the body. I did a lot of research and believe we gave a thoroughly convincing presentation on why it is so important to assess for, diagnose and treat depression in oncology patients. You can imagine how difficult it can be in this particular patient population because some of the somatic symptoms of cancer actually mimick depression. Nonetheless, it is so important to continue to work towards better ways to attack this issue.
After the presentation we geared up for dinner at Clarke Quay. Had some tapas to the tunes of some Singaporean men singing Spanish tunes. We walked around the Quay and found a bar called Forbidden (alluring, no?) and went in to find they had an ice bar inside. We squealed like little schoolgirls on Christmas and ran to put the coats the provide on and run in to do a shot of vodka on ice. It tasted gross but was one of the funniest few minutes watching us all slide around in our heels on the ice floor.
Wednesday (the long awaited ladies night) we had some spicy Indian food for breakfast (Shannon was not used to this to say the least) and went on the Singapore Flyer. Singapore likes to boast about a lot of things that are the biggest, first, tallest or fastest. The Flyer is the largest observation wheel in the world. It goes around for 37 minutes and you get to see an amazing view of Singapore. You can even see the Malaysian mountains to the north and Indonesian islands to the south. Call me a blubbering fool but I got a lil emotional on the wheel. I didn't shed a tear, because I'm no sissy, but I did get a chance to look at the country that I've so enjoyed the past seven weeks. I came down and in the spirit of lovin' on Singapore, we went to the Singapore National Museum. Now I love museums. What I love more are museums that give you those headphones that talk to you about the exhibits while you walk around. Lookin like a huge dork, we trodded around the museum for about 2.5 hours listening to a man with a cold (why didn't he postpone the taping a few days so that he was actually able to say "amazing" instead of "abazing?") talk about the history, food, fashion, film and photography of good ol' Singapore.
We went to Chijmes for dinner at a mediteranean restaurant before beginning ladies night one last time. It was outrageously crowded but luckily (embarassingly?) the guy at the door recognized me and pulled us in quickly. Shannon got to experience the bad 90s music, the Village People, 20 Sing free-flow drinks and the crowded bar filled with men looking for the women at the ladies night and the ladies avoiding the men looking for the women at ladies night. It was good.
Thursday was the dreaded 16th of July - the day I leave Singapore! I went to an interview at the hospital. Oh, I should explain - I decided not to take a job right now. Too many things going on at home and I will get a better springboard jump into nursing at Hopkins in Baltimore. I told them that I'd like to be officially interviewed so it's on record and I can apply in the future. I am happy with my decision and the contacts that I've made are happy that I'm looking to possibly come back in the future. I have my MSN/MPH to attain and when I'm done I'll probably be better suited to come back and work then anyway. So, I had my interview (which was filled with 20 minutes of side-bar conversations about rowdy patients from two of the interviewers. Guess they interview the way Americans grill - I mean interview new grads) and said my goodbyes one last time.
We made it to the plane in time this round and lifted out of Singapore. I cannot express in words how much this experience has give me. I have learned about myself and my goals in life, met amazingly interesting people, tasted rich foods, watched a sunrise in Bali, made connections with extremely ill patients, found a place I love and had a fantastic time.
Next stop: Thailand.
Anywho, she arrived and slept a good 9 hours and we were off. She ate at one of the food courts for 5 bucks and tried her first Cendol. She was not a fan. I finished the rest of hers (sidenote, I'm writing from an internet cafe in Thailand and literately salivating at the thought of Cendol) and felt disgustingly but happily full the rest of the day. I took her on a Singapore duck tour. Cheesy? Yes. However, it's a quick view of the city and she had only a few days. It was ridiculously hot and the tour goes in the water and gets a pathetic attempt at a breeze, so it was worth it. We learned not much new about Singapore but got to see some sights. We then went to Chinatown. She bought a few things and we had sushi for dinner. I dragged her out to Raffles for a Singapore Sling after that and she was about falling asleep in her drink. Her jet lag brought us home (no need to be ashamed, Shannon. I was lagged for about a week!).
The next day we had an all-you-can-eat sushi buffet. Good idea beforehand, horrible stomach pains after. There was an interesting twist to this buffet. If you took the sushi off the conveyor belt and did not eat every dang crumb, they charged you for it. Needless to say, at the end, Shan and I ended up almost vomiting when we had to stick one last sushi roll in our mouths when we could no longer take any more. Kind of ruins the experience a tad when they're watching you like a hawk to see that you don't leave a speck of ginger on your plate.
We ventured to Arab street to wander around like fatties full of sushi until the time ticked 4pm and we had to hurry off to my final presentation at the hospital. We gave a presentation on depression and oncology. It's a topic that I am passionate about; clinicians continue to treat the body and not the head attached to the body. I did a lot of research and believe we gave a thoroughly convincing presentation on why it is so important to assess for, diagnose and treat depression in oncology patients. You can imagine how difficult it can be in this particular patient population because some of the somatic symptoms of cancer actually mimick depression. Nonetheless, it is so important to continue to work towards better ways to attack this issue.
After the presentation we geared up for dinner at Clarke Quay. Had some tapas to the tunes of some Singaporean men singing Spanish tunes. We walked around the Quay and found a bar called Forbidden (alluring, no?) and went in to find they had an ice bar inside. We squealed like little schoolgirls on Christmas and ran to put the coats the provide on and run in to do a shot of vodka on ice. It tasted gross but was one of the funniest few minutes watching us all slide around in our heels on the ice floor.
Wednesday (the long awaited ladies night) we had some spicy Indian food for breakfast (Shannon was not used to this to say the least) and went on the Singapore Flyer. Singapore likes to boast about a lot of things that are the biggest, first, tallest or fastest. The Flyer is the largest observation wheel in the world. It goes around for 37 minutes and you get to see an amazing view of Singapore. You can even see the Malaysian mountains to the north and Indonesian islands to the south. Call me a blubbering fool but I got a lil emotional on the wheel. I didn't shed a tear, because I'm no sissy, but I did get a chance to look at the country that I've so enjoyed the past seven weeks. I came down and in the spirit of lovin' on Singapore, we went to the Singapore National Museum. Now I love museums. What I love more are museums that give you those headphones that talk to you about the exhibits while you walk around. Lookin like a huge dork, we trodded around the museum for about 2.5 hours listening to a man with a cold (why didn't he postpone the taping a few days so that he was actually able to say "amazing" instead of "abazing?") talk about the history, food, fashion, film and photography of good ol' Singapore.
We went to Chijmes for dinner at a mediteranean restaurant before beginning ladies night one last time. It was outrageously crowded but luckily (embarassingly?) the guy at the door recognized me and pulled us in quickly. Shannon got to experience the bad 90s music, the Village People, 20 Sing free-flow drinks and the crowded bar filled with men looking for the women at the ladies night and the ladies avoiding the men looking for the women at ladies night. It was good.
Thursday was the dreaded 16th of July - the day I leave Singapore! I went to an interview at the hospital. Oh, I should explain - I decided not to take a job right now. Too many things going on at home and I will get a better springboard jump into nursing at Hopkins in Baltimore. I told them that I'd like to be officially interviewed so it's on record and I can apply in the future. I am happy with my decision and the contacts that I've made are happy that I'm looking to possibly come back in the future. I have my MSN/MPH to attain and when I'm done I'll probably be better suited to come back and work then anyway. So, I had my interview (which was filled with 20 minutes of side-bar conversations about rowdy patients from two of the interviewers. Guess they interview the way Americans grill - I mean interview new grads) and said my goodbyes one last time.
We made it to the plane in time this round and lifted out of Singapore. I cannot express in words how much this experience has give me. I have learned about myself and my goals in life, met amazingly interesting people, tasted rich foods, watched a sunrise in Bali, made connections with extremely ill patients, found a place I love and had a fantastic time.
Next stop: Thailand.
Sunday, July 12, 2009
Put'Em Up!
This is a daily occurrence that I have to document. Temperature 2x a day 7 days a week. No exceptions. Silly Singapore. . .don't they know that H1N1 now doesn't necessarily include a fever? Whatever makes them feel more comfortable that the Americans aren't bringing disease to their country. They even do this at bars; ID and temp check in one!
Saturday, July 11, 2009
Big Animals and Big Decisions
So we have a mere four days left in Singapore and I'm getting really really sad. We had a great last weekend (it's Sunday morning so there's still some time left for more great weekending); we went out with the head of the Johns Hopkins International Medical Center (where I had my life talk - more to come on that below) on Friday night, relaxed by our pool on Saturday and had a lunchbreak of indian food and cendol totaling 5.00 (3.50 indian food lunch and 1.50 cendol). I'm gonna miss the amazingly tasty and cheap food.
We then went to the Night Safari at the Singapore Zoo. They open up the park from 7 to 12 and all the animals to view are nocturnal. We did some walks and then got on a tram ride that brings you around the entire park. During the first trail we did before the tram ride, we were inching along waiting to see what would be next and realized it was the cheetah. It was pacing back and forth right up against the window where we'd stand to watch. It had it's whole little world and decided to be right smack up against the glass. We were uncessecarily scared and asking each other "are you sure the glass is thick? Where does the cage end?" We couldn't walk right up to the glass because our stupid fear was paralyzing. I should probably jump back to the beginning of the trails when we were talking about how scared we were because we were basically walking along in the dark waiting to see creatures in the night (creatures that sometimes eat humans in the wild). So we're standing at a distance from the cheetah, but inching forward as we got more comfortable. Right then the cheetah lets out a terrifying roar . . . meow . . . growl? Whatever it was it made us both scream, drop our maps and run backwards up the trail. As we were slowing down we realized we were passing four year olds who were eagerly walking towards the cheetah cage. Ugh, beat by my wimpiness. We got the courage up to go closer to the cage when the little four year olds were closest. Hopefully the cheetah would get them if - and most likely when - it broke through the four inch thick glass (looking back, I know how ridiculous this was because we are in Singapore, a place that does not like to be on the news in regards to anything bad. SARS ruined Singapore in that respect. I doubt this country wants to be known for SARS and for the cheetah that got out of its cage to eat an American tourist. But this epiphany was in retrospect. At the time my mind was clouded by terror).
So we got on the tram after realizing the trails weren't the best place for big ol' sissies. We saw elephants, girrafes, rhinos, hippos, bears and a lot of other animals that I'd never heard of. I saw many otters, which made me happy because otters are some of my favorite animals. Silly, I know, but how could you not love an animal that floats in the water and eats its dinner off its belly simultaneously? Big thumbs up for the Night Safari - however - if you go, I suggest going on a weekday because Saturday night was mayhem with the strollers and crying children.
We then met up with some friends at Clarke Quay for drinks. I love the Quay area nightlife. It is open until about 5am and you can find a burger or Turkish ice cream until that hour as well.
So back to my life discussion with the head of JHIMC. I was telling him how sad I am to leave and he asked if I would like a job here. That made my head spin a bit but after some discussion, he said to talk with my nurse manager on Monday - tomorrow - and I am. I've loved every minute I've spent traveling and meeting people from all over the world. The two things that are pulling at me are my career path (In Baltimore I'd be working at the best oncology center in the nation. I also have my MSN/MPH to start in a year - and they only allow you to defer a year, max. In Singapore, the floor is definitely not equipped to handle a new graduate the way Baltimore is; Balitmore has a fantastic springboard program for new grads that lasts six months and I'd be trained very well.l) and my desire to have an adventure (I'd be able to travel all over Asia as it's so easy to do so from Singapore. I'd be able to live in a foreign country. I'd be able to meet all different types of people and nurse an international patient population). It's two things that are both important to me and I'm having a hard time deciding what is more important. I also have to take into consideration the fact that I'd be paid much less here in Singapore - but the cost of living is also less. Student loans. . . car payments. . . rent . . . furniture. . . family. . . so many things to consider when considering actually moving here for a year or so. I have to do just that, though. I have to consider it. I'm not going to say no right away because the attraction of just the idea is fantastic. I've been putting off my happiness for quite some time. When my dad got sick, I started taking pre-req's for nursing school while working full time. Then I was in nursing school. Then I graduated and I'm going to work and get my masters in Baltimore - a place I'd rather not live because I'll be happy afterwards. So many years of waiting to be where I want to be. It's hard waiting and finally I'm somwhere where I'm not waiting and I have this opportunity/idea dropped in my lap and I'm trying to prioritize and figure out what's best.
If it's one thing that my dad's illness, battle and journey taught me it's that you really don't know what is going to happen to you next and you should live your life the best and happiest way you can. It sounds cliche but something inside me changed and I think that it may take something drastic happening in your life to make you stop for a moment and stop worrying about the smaller things and open your eyes up to the big picture.
I don't know what I'm going to do. I have a call in to my family for some brainstorming, right now. That's all that it is - a brainstorm - but it might be more. . . ? I'll see how I feel after talking with my nurse manager tomorrow.
So today we are off to Arab street and Sentosa to the Underwater World (sea creatures).
I can't believe I leave in less than a week and start my second leg of this journey - Southern Thailand, Bangkok, Phnom Pehn and Siem Reap's Angkor Wat. I'm so sad to leave the fantastic people and country I've come to love but I'll first focus on the few days I have left and make them the best they can be.
We then went to the Night Safari at the Singapore Zoo. They open up the park from 7 to 12 and all the animals to view are nocturnal. We did some walks and then got on a tram ride that brings you around the entire park. During the first trail we did before the tram ride, we were inching along waiting to see what would be next and realized it was the cheetah. It was pacing back and forth right up against the window where we'd stand to watch. It had it's whole little world and decided to be right smack up against the glass. We were uncessecarily scared and asking each other "are you sure the glass is thick? Where does the cage end?" We couldn't walk right up to the glass because our stupid fear was paralyzing. I should probably jump back to the beginning of the trails when we were talking about how scared we were because we were basically walking along in the dark waiting to see creatures in the night (creatures that sometimes eat humans in the wild). So we're standing at a distance from the cheetah, but inching forward as we got more comfortable. Right then the cheetah lets out a terrifying roar . . . meow . . . growl? Whatever it was it made us both scream, drop our maps and run backwards up the trail. As we were slowing down we realized we were passing four year olds who were eagerly walking towards the cheetah cage. Ugh, beat by my wimpiness. We got the courage up to go closer to the cage when the little four year olds were closest. Hopefully the cheetah would get them if - and most likely when - it broke through the four inch thick glass (looking back, I know how ridiculous this was because we are in Singapore, a place that does not like to be on the news in regards to anything bad. SARS ruined Singapore in that respect. I doubt this country wants to be known for SARS and for the cheetah that got out of its cage to eat an American tourist. But this epiphany was in retrospect. At the time my mind was clouded by terror).
So we got on the tram after realizing the trails weren't the best place for big ol' sissies. We saw elephants, girrafes, rhinos, hippos, bears and a lot of other animals that I'd never heard of. I saw many otters, which made me happy because otters are some of my favorite animals. Silly, I know, but how could you not love an animal that floats in the water and eats its dinner off its belly simultaneously? Big thumbs up for the Night Safari - however - if you go, I suggest going on a weekday because Saturday night was mayhem with the strollers and crying children.
We then met up with some friends at Clarke Quay for drinks. I love the Quay area nightlife. It is open until about 5am and you can find a burger or Turkish ice cream until that hour as well.
So back to my life discussion with the head of JHIMC. I was telling him how sad I am to leave and he asked if I would like a job here. That made my head spin a bit but after some discussion, he said to talk with my nurse manager on Monday - tomorrow - and I am. I've loved every minute I've spent traveling and meeting people from all over the world. The two things that are pulling at me are my career path (In Baltimore I'd be working at the best oncology center in the nation. I also have my MSN/MPH to start in a year - and they only allow you to defer a year, max. In Singapore, the floor is definitely not equipped to handle a new graduate the way Baltimore is; Balitmore has a fantastic springboard program for new grads that lasts six months and I'd be trained very well.l) and my desire to have an adventure (I'd be able to travel all over Asia as it's so easy to do so from Singapore. I'd be able to live in a foreign country. I'd be able to meet all different types of people and nurse an international patient population). It's two things that are both important to me and I'm having a hard time deciding what is more important. I also have to take into consideration the fact that I'd be paid much less here in Singapore - but the cost of living is also less. Student loans. . . car payments. . . rent . . . furniture. . . family. . . so many things to consider when considering actually moving here for a year or so. I have to do just that, though. I have to consider it. I'm not going to say no right away because the attraction of just the idea is fantastic. I've been putting off my happiness for quite some time. When my dad got sick, I started taking pre-req's for nursing school while working full time. Then I was in nursing school. Then I graduated and I'm going to work and get my masters in Baltimore - a place I'd rather not live because I'll be happy afterwards. So many years of waiting to be where I want to be. It's hard waiting and finally I'm somwhere where I'm not waiting and I have this opportunity/idea dropped in my lap and I'm trying to prioritize and figure out what's best.
If it's one thing that my dad's illness, battle and journey taught me it's that you really don't know what is going to happen to you next and you should live your life the best and happiest way you can. It sounds cliche but something inside me changed and I think that it may take something drastic happening in your life to make you stop for a moment and stop worrying about the smaller things and open your eyes up to the big picture.
I don't know what I'm going to do. I have a call in to my family for some brainstorming, right now. That's all that it is - a brainstorm - but it might be more. . . ? I'll see how I feel after talking with my nurse manager tomorrow.
So today we are off to Arab street and Sentosa to the Underwater World (sea creatures).
I can't believe I leave in less than a week and start my second leg of this journey - Southern Thailand, Bangkok, Phnom Pehn and Siem Reap's Angkor Wat. I'm so sad to leave the fantastic people and country I've come to love but I'll first focus on the few days I have left and make them the best they can be.
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